Imagine discovering a world where a humble dish like porridge becomes a global competition, captivating communities and highlighting centuries-old traditions. But here’s where it gets controversial: many people overlook the cultural richness and community spirit behind this simple fare.
When thinking about peculiar or niche topics for a documentary, porridge might not immediately come to mind. However, Australian theatre and opera director-turned-filmmaker Constantine Costi has defied expectations with his engaging new documentary, The Golden Spurtle. This film takes viewers into an unexpected realm of culinary craftsmanship and community camaraderie.
Now, before watching this film, I’ll confess I had no idea what a spurtle was. But after learning about it, it’s definitely on my Christmas wish list! According to historical Scottish language sources, a spurtle is described as “a short, round stick used specifically for stirring porridge.” Typically crafted from wood, this simple tool has a storied tradition.
In the peaceful Scottish Highlands village of Carrbridge, each year the most coveted prize awarded is a shining golden spurtle—an award given at the World Porridge Making Championships. The documentary focuses on the 2023 edition, marking the contest’s 30th anniversary.
Every October, porridge enthusiasts from across the globe descend upon Carrbridge to compete in a contest where they prepare their best porridge—using just three core ingredients: oats, salt, and water. What makes 2023 particularly noteworthy is that it saw the farewell of Charlie Miller, the unofficial mayor of Carrbridge and an enthusiastic spurtle maker who has been a dominant figure in the competition since 1994. If the film has a star, Charlie Miller undoubtedly deserves that title.
Costi’s and cinematographer Dimitri Zaunders’ artistic choices turn this documentary into something akin to a moving photograph. The film is shot in a 4:3 aspect ratio—reminiscent of vintage films and older television screens—creating an nostalgic, old-world visual aesthetic. Moreover, every scene is captured with a static camera, remaining fixed in position—an approach that gives the film a contemplative, almost painterly quality. The decision to keep the camera still emphasizes the beauty of Carrbridge’s scenic landscapes and its quaint architecture, while also allowing the personalities of the contestants to shine through.
While this consistent visual style suits most of the film, around the midpoint, I found the sameness of the shots somewhat stagnating. However, the occasional humorous or unexpected event within the still frame helped maintain engagement.
Throughout the 75-minute documentary, we’re introduced to a diverse cast of contestants, each with their own quirks and stories. Among them is Ian Bishop, the only local winner, as well as Lisa Williams, famously known as the Queen of Porridge, a back-to-back champion. There’s also Nick Barnard, a serious competitor who’s come close multiple times—having been a finalist seven times—and Toby Wilson, an Australian chef specializing in tacos, returning for another shot at glory. These characters exhibit great passion and personality, adding depth to the narrative.
However, one noticeable omission in the film is a detailed look at the actual porridge-making techniques or what judges specifically seek in their evaluations. Questions like: What distinguishes a winning bowl? Do different oats produce vastly different results? Is rapid boiling better than simmering? Does the stirring direction matter? Or is the judging primarily based on flavor, texture, or appearance? The closest the film comes to exploring these questions is a brief exchange where Ian Bishop refuses to reveal his choice of oats, implying a strategic secrecy.
Adding to the cultural tapestry is the story of Melbourne food stylist Caroline Velik, who returned victorious from the 32nd championship, winning in the Speciality Dish category with her distinctive Aussie-inspired concoction featuring bananas, wattleseed, Davidson plum powder, and Bundaberg rum. She also placed second overall in the main competition. Sadly, her story and the wider variety of competition categories where contestants can showcase their creativity—like adding ingredients or personal twists—are notably absent from the documentary. This leaves viewers without a full picture of the culinary creativity involved.
Despite possible superficial perceptions that this event is an eccentric curiosity, a deeper look reveals a thriving community effort. A small group of passionate volunteers in a quiet village, motivated by love for a humble, time-honored dish, has managed to spotlight porridge on the international stage. This celebration of basic ingredients—oats, salt, and water—embodies community, tradition, and innovation. It’s a reminder that even the simplest foods can carry profound cultural significance.
Similarly to Oliver Twist’s famous plea for more gruel, many viewers might feel that the film leaves us eager for even greater insight and depth. Nonetheless, The Golden Spurtle beautifully captures how a small, dedicated community can elevate an ordinary dish to extraordinary levels, turning it into a symbol of cultural pride and creativity.
If you’re interested in unusual stories that unite people through shared passion and tradition, this film is well worth seeing—currently playing in cinemas. But ask yourself: are we truly appreciating the cultural richness behind such humble staples, or are we dismissing them as mere eccentricities? What’s your take—do simple traditions deserve more recognition, or are they just remnants of the past? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
